Workshop 9: Architecture Photography!

Ugly and disgusting exterior of the Belconnen Mall versus the beautiful exterior of the ABS Building or the newly built Government Buildings...?

HDR attempt of Government building in Belconnen. Probably not the best, but a really dark building and really harsh mid-day sun do not mix well, as you can plainly see. This was just done using the 24-70mm wide angle lens.

This is an image of the ABS Building in Belconnen, it was originally meant to be an attempt at a HDR, but there are alot of factors to take into account when planning to take images like this. Firstly there will always be cars constantly driving past, which means the automated Merge to HDR in PS, is not always going to give you a final accurate shot as you can see circled in pink. The best way might just be to remove the cars totally from the image. The second issue is whether or not you will be either asked to, or will want to hide away dirty pollution & smog marks on the side of your chosen building. (See circled in pink) I would love to reshoot this building, and even possibly use it for my building representation of David Jones Head office, obviously replacing the ABS name with DJ's. It might also be useful to have some polarising filters, and coming at a nicer time of day, like just before sunset, for example.

Creative/Boredom piece. (Whilst waiting for the use of the tilt-shift)

An attempt at fixing converging lines of the ABS Building.

Fun with Tilt-Shift!!!!!

I like to think it's a creative image =)

Leading lines (sky is so dark to compensate for how bright the sun was making the building, you can't win them all. Well maybe with a HDR, but Shhhhh!)

Workshop 8: Interior Photography: Belconnen Mall

Interior Photography can be one of the more difficult types that you may come across when hired by a client. The lighting can effect the way everything appears. You have to consider how much space you have to shoot in, how much of the subject the camera sees is a tiny comparison to what the human eye can see, most clients will expect you to achieve this.

HDR attempt of the lift in the mall

Interior of new section of mall, near target

interior shot including the ceiling and floor, fixed lines

HDR of the elevator on level 2, near myer entrance

creative image =)

Landscape Photography

Landscape photography is a major part of the photographic industry within Australia. The Australian landscape offers many vast and marvellous attractions for professional and entry level photographers. This type of imagery can be used for many different purposes, such as advertising, editiorial, and as house hold decor, just as examples. Traditional landscape photography captures the essence of nature, and is often free of man-made structures. That is when you start to move into the sub-genre of cityscapes. Landscape photographers attempt to document and portray the scene accurately, but they also demonstrate an appreciation for the beauty of the environment.

There are a few technical aspects of this type of photography to consider. Firstly you need some tools such as; a camera body; a few different wide angle lenses, 24mm and the 35mm are the usual suspects; filters - a split neutral density or polarising; a tripod and camera release cable.

Workshop 6: Industrial Location

Industrial photography can be defined as photographic practice that takes place within an industrial organization, to document production processes, products, work organization, employees, or the layout, equipment, or culture of an enterprise. The pictures are to serve both internal and external purposes. (ie, for the companies webpage, or inside the building, or as an advertisement)

Interior Space 1 (Horizontal):
Interior Space 1 (Vertical):
HDR:
Panorama:

Chiaroscura:
People completing a task:
Exterior of buildings:
Just for fun:

Workshop 5: Color Balance, filters, grey cards

For this workshop we had to test out color balances and ways to achieve what you want using different tricks and tools to attain the color you want in a given situation.

Location: Inside the Convention Centre, Canberra.

Problems encountered: We all had to share the one tripod, silly people didn't go and borrow one off dave! Tsk tsk. And then I had to lend out my 24-70L because no one had anything wider, made it hard to do quickly, therefore good and unique shots are compromised.

What I learnt from the experience: The best tools to have in your kit are the white and grey cards, simple and easy, however may be inconveniant if they start to fade of old age or get dirty. Or the other best option is the Color Temperature meter thingymabob. :)

Auto White Balance:

White card to create custom white balance (in camera):

Custom White balance shot: This shot makes such a difference in comparison with the auto white balance shot above. It gives a more accurate response to the given light.



Using the expo disc for custom white balance:
Shot after using expo disc:

Using colormeter thingy: (3000k) This probably works the best out of all ways to test, for accurate readings.

Location: Stairs, Main entrance of Convention Centre

Auto White Balance:

White Card:

Final Image after greycards and colormeter tested: Both images very similar

Using Expo Disc:
After ExpoDisc:

Location: Back door of Convention Centre, Glass doors & windows
Auto white balance:
White Card in scene:
Custom white balance after white card reading:

Expo Disc:
After Expo Disc Custom balance:
Colormeter thingy: (4800k)

Location: Convention Centre Reception Desk
Auto white balance:

White Card reading:

Custom white balance after card reading:

Expo disc reading:

Expo Disc Shot:

Colormeter reading: (4400k)

Once again, in all of these shots, the clear choice would be to purchase a colormeter. They are definately the most accurate readings, as it can read all the different light that are falling in the area where you are shooting. However the cheaper option is of course a grey card, something well worth investing in.

Workshop 4: Choosing the right lens for you

Testing Lenses Lecture Notes:

Focal Length
• Focal length will determine the amount off the scene that is recorded
• 15mm fisheye 180° field off view
• 20mm 94°
• 28mm 75°
• 35mm 63°
• 50mm 46°
• 85mm 28° 30’’
• 135mm 18°
• 200mm 12°
• 300mm 8° 15’’
• 400mm 6° 10’’
• 600mm 4° 10’’
• 1200mm 2° 5’’
http://www.usa.canon.com/app/html/EFLenses101/focal_length.html

•A Zoom lens is better for a portrait as you can be further away from your subject, but still be able to fill the frame.
•Prime lenses and wide angle lenses are whats needed for interiors. 28mm or wider is often nessercery.
•Wide angle and tilt shift lenses are perfect for architecture. A prime lens will allow you to keep lines straight, a tilt shift will help fix the converging lines and help with focus.
•What is the correlation between dof and focal length?
• Lens choice will enable you to change perspective, a lens can compress a scene, it can also convey a
feeling off space and openness

Lenses tested: 50mm 1.8 and the 24- 70mm 2.8

In my test for the lens 24-70mm L2.8 I discovered that the sharpest point is from between about f4 - f11, after and before this the focus is not good at all.

To test the focus I shot at 51mm focal length. When my camera is set to Av mode the shutter speed is alot faster then what it ought to be according to a light meter reading at 2.8 the light meter said we needed 320 but the in camera meter made it 800s, which is really strange and shows you how off the in camera metering can be.

ISO 200 f2.8 @ 320s
ISO 200 f2.8 @ 800s
ISO 200 f4 @ 400s
ISO 200 f5.6 @ 200s



chromatic abberations that appear when using smallest and biggest apertures.